Thursday, May 31, 2012

Travelling to Torquay

Damp conditions accompanied us from Bath to Cheddar Gorge. Fog hovering over the fens was an eerie sight reminiscent of a scene from Wuthering Heights. Cheddar Gorge has a rugged grandeur about it.  It is a place for outdoor enthusiasts, particularly those interested in abseiling & rock climbing.

When in England one doesn't have to go far to be further. I note the main thoroughfare for most of the villages & towns is named High Street. Given the close proximity of these townships, when do the High Streets become a Highway?

One week on the road and we are yet to witness any behaviour that resembles road rage. When on narrow lanes/roads a polite custom of slowing or stopping to give way to oncoming traffic is acknowledged with a wave.

Glastonbury appeared to offer an alternate lifestyle. A closer acquaintance confirmed this to be fact. Astrologers, mystics, psychics, clairvoyants, card readers, crystal healers seem out of place in what was once a centre for religious pilgrimage. Glastonbury Abbey is steeped in legend & history. Founded in 600AD, it is the earliest Christian Sanctuary in Britain. The abbey was destroyed by fire in 1184 and rebuilt. Today ruins fight the ravages of time. It is the legendary burial place of King Arthur & Queen Guinevere.







The windswept moors above Pollock provided an opportunity for stunning views over farming land & the coastline bordering the Atlantic Ocean.

Lynmouth is an old village overlooking an equally old harbour. No time to stop!

Today we covered 180 miles in 8+ hours. The 21 miles from Lynmouth to Barnstaple was stressful for those of us who aren't accustomed to negotiating the narrow roads & descending steep terrain  at speed. The intensity of concentration required was exhausting. Well done Phil!



We have arrived in Torquay, the English Riviera. Our guesthouse accommodation is in an 1880's Victorian Terrace. Our hosts have only been in residence a month  and are still finding their way. He is a chef .  I'm looking forward to breakfast!
I fell in love with four friendly friesian faces!





Bristol, boats & bridges - boy things!



Cooler conditions necessitated delving to the bottom of our bags to retrieve winter clothing. Phil has gone to Bristol to look at boats & bridges - boy things! I am enjoying a quieter morning at our lodgings to rest, write & read - girl things!
Geoff, hope you enjoy the boat pics.



      



Sally Lunn's is the oldest building in Bath. The Tudor building was erected circa 1480 & given its stone facade in the 1720's. This afternoon we visited the old kitchen, now a museum of kitchenalia sourced from the site. When Sally Lunn came to the bakehouse in 1680, she found a recipe for a bun that was rich, round & generous. The buns were made using fresh eggs, butter & warm milk together with the skill she had learned making French brioche. The buns became so famous that the house became known as Sally Lunn's. The recipe, found in a secret cupboard, is now passed with the deeds of the house.



We strolled through the city centre, through the gardens & along the River Avon before heading for our favourite local hotel for a baked dinner. Excellent value at ten pound including a drink. Tonight it was a hot coffee to warm the soul. This afternoon's wind chill was bracing.




We are again comfortable with the British Imperial System. We have accepted miles can be miles and the conversion to kilometres is unnecessary. Also, the pounds don't need to be divided by point six to give an approximate currency conversion to the Australian dollar.

Tomorrow we journey to Torquay. While looking forward to exploring the Cornwall Coast, we have enjoyed our visit to Bath. Our accommodation at Bodhi House rivals that of the Port Melbourne Hyatt & The Hope Valley Hilton! Bath has been bewitching!

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Avon Calling!


                                                                                                                                                           

With a weather forecast of cooler temperatures and showers increasing to rain, we altered our plans for the day. This morning we spent an hour boating on the still waters of the Kennet-Avon Canal between Monkton Combe & Limpley-Stokes. The positions vacant advertised for a deck scrubber, galley slave & a stern hand! While well qualified for these roles, the Captain was also seeking a first mate. I got the job!







The canal, dappled in morning sunlight, offered a tranquil escape from the busy country lanes. An anxious moment or two when we happened upon a pirate vessel. The Jolly Roger was at mast, but on this occasion the pirates went unsighted!






The Dundas Aqueduct, spanning a rail link, was built between 1791 & 1801. It was the first canal structure to be designated an Ancient Monument award in 1951.







History repeats! Bradford on Avon, tucked into the western corner of Wiltshire, is another beautiful historic town of great appeal. The township straddles the River Avon & is connected by an ancient bridge. Just two of its original 13th century arches have survived the ravages of time. The views from the bridge include the ranks of humble weavers' cottages which stand proudly on the hilly slope above the river & the 19th century textile mills. During a time past, textile manufacturing had been Bradford's primary industry.





The Saxon Church of St Laurence dates from 709AD. It is a characteristically Anglo-Saxon building, tall & narrow with small windows. It is still used as a place of worship and, given the chair count, it caters for a congregation numbering just eighteen.



  




An amble along the bank of the Avon took us to Barton Farm & the Tithe Barn, a stunning building dated 1341. Built of stone, it measures 168 feet by 33 feet & is spanned by massive timber roof trusses. In a time past the old barn served Barton Farm, an outlying farm of the Shaftesbury Abbey, a Benedictine nunnery.






A cuppa at the Bridge Tea Shop, built in 1502, was a delightful experience, from the waitresses dressed in period black & white costume right down to the lace table clothes, fine china & the silver tongs for the sugar cubes. I felt like I was a right proppa lady, I did, until I seed the paper napkins!




The much acclaimed 76AD Roman Baths boast a temple complex built around hot spring-fed baths. The sacred spring served as a place of veneration for the local people long before the Romans arrived. Statues of past governors of the province of Britannia & Roman Emperors with connections to Britain stand sentinel on the terrace overlooking the baths. These include Caesar, Claudius, Vespasian & Hadrian.


Courtesy of our accommodation house, we received a complimentary pass to the spa. This included unlimited use of the hammam (steam room), thermal spa & pool. An hour & a half later we felt cleansed & ravenous. We returned to the Bear Hotel for a pub meal.


Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Bathing Beauty!




Perched high on one of the seven hills that surround Bath, we awoke to an amazing panorama of a city that has stood since 1482. Bath, a spa town, was popularised by Queen Ann as a place of healing. We plan to visit the baths during our  stay here. Evidenced by the extensive restoration projects we witnessed today, the city's heart is being revitalised. The Bath Sightseeing Bus tour & commentary gave us an excellent introduction to this ancient city.



Pulteney Street Bridge said to rival that of the
Pont Vecchio in Florence & The Rialto in Venice.
I challenge the claim!
#4 Sydney Street,  home to Jane Austen in 1801
                                                     

early 18th century turnpike toll gate





                           




                                                                                                                                           


Pulteney Street
once home of William Wilberforce
&
former Prime Minister Pip the Younger